🇮🇹 Southern Europe #21

Italy

Olive oil, produce, and the world's greatest carbs — the kitchen is friendlier than you think, but anchovy and lard hide in places you won't expect

Difficulty
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Easiest → Near Impossible

Excellent self-catering; produce/carbs ubiquitous; dining dairy-heavy; hidden anchovy and strutto require attention

Self-Catering Good
Vegan Scene Growing
Hidden Risk Anchovy & lard
Language Some needed
Traveller Note

Italy is ranked #21 in VTG's 2026 country rankings — the lowest-ranked of the three southern European Level 1 destinations, behind France (#14) and Spain (#20). No Italian city currently sits in HappyCow's global Top 10, though Rome and Milan feature in European regional lists. The country rank reflects the whole of Italy, not just its major hubs.

In practice, Italy earns its Level 1 place through supermarket reliability and produce abundance. The kitchen is broadly friendly — olive oil is the default cooking fat, dried pasta is almost always egg-free, and any pizza can be ordered senza formaggio without a second glance. One stealth trap many visitors miss: parmigiano reggiano and grana padano are not vegetarian in the strict sense — both use animal rennet — and parmesan is often added automatically to pasta dishes without being asked. Say senza parmigiano as a habit. The five learnable traps — anchovy, strutto, egg in fresh pasta, gelatine, and hidden cheese — are specific and manageable. Know them before you arrive. Always check labels on packaged food.

The Real Challenge

What's Hiding in the Kitchen

Anchovy & Colatura Acciughe · Colatura di alici
Everywhere

The invisible backbone of Italian coastal cooking. Present in puttanesca sauce, tapenade, orecchiette con cime di rapa in Puglia (anchovies melt into the oil), and some pasta alle vongole. Colatura — aged anchovy drizzle from Cetara — used as a seasoning and never named on menus.

Found in: puttanesca · tapenade · Caesar-style dressings · braised greens · some soups
Full anchovy guide →
Lard (Strutto) Strutto · Sugna
Regional

Standard in bread and pizza dough in Emilia-Romagna. Gnocco fritto, torta fritta, piadina, and tigelle are traditionally made with lard. Modern tourist-area pizzerias usually use olive oil — but traditional bakeries and regional specialities may not. Always ask.

Found in: piadina · gnocco fritto · tigelle · some focaccia · fried street food
Full strutto guide →
Egg in Fresh Pasta Pasta all'uovo · Pasta fresca
Common

Fresh pasta in Italy almost always contains egg — tagliatelle, pappardelle, ravioli, tortellini, lasagne sheets. The distinction that saves you: pasta secca (dry packet pasta) is typically egg-free. Always specify which you want. If it was made today, assume it contains egg.

Found in: tagliatelle · ravioli · tortellini · lasagne · pappardelle · stuffed pasta
Gelatine & Fining Gelatina · Colla di pesce
Occasional

Panna cotta is set with gelatine. Tiramisu contains eggs and sometimes gelatine. Italian wine may use isinglass, casein, or egg white as fining agents. Fruit sorbetto is almost always safe — but always check labels when buying packaged desserts.

Found in: panna cotta · tiramisu · some desserts · non-vegan wines
Language

Say This in the Restaurant

Full phrasebook →
Sono vegano / vegana
SO-no ve-GAH-no / ve-GAH-na I am vegan (m/f)
Senza carne, pesce, latticini, uova o miele
SEN-tsa KAR-ne, PEH-she… No meat, fish, dairy, eggs or honey
Pasta secca, non fresca — senza uova
PA-sta SEK-ka, non FRES-ka Dry pasta, not fresh — no eggs
Senza formaggio, per favore
SEN-tsa for-MAJ-oh, pair fa-VO-reh Without cheese, please
Senza parmigiano, per favore
SEN-tsa par-mee-JAH-no, pair fa-VO-reh No parmesan, please
C'è strutto nell'impasto?
cheh STROOT-to nel-im-PA-sto? Is there lard in the dough?
Ci sono acciughe in questo piatto?
chee SO-no at-CHOO-ge in KWES-to PYAT-to? Are there anchovies in this dish?
C'è brodo di carne o di pesce?
cheh BRO-do dee KAR-ne oh dee PEH-she? Is there meat or fish stock?
È cotto in olio o nel burro?
eh KOT-to in OL-yo oh nel BOOR-ro? Cooked in oil or butter?
Survival Guide

What Actually Works

01
🍕

Pizza Marinara

Tomato, garlic, oregano — Italy's oldest pizza and 100% vegan as written. Order it anywhere in the country without modification. Nobody bats an eyelid ordering pizza without cheese — this is Italy, not Domino's.

02
🍝

Pasta al Pomodoro

Specify pasta secca. Tomato sauce (without cream or parmesan) is the safest restaurant meal in Italy. Add senza parmigiano — parmesan arrives automatically on most pasta. Penne arrabbiata and spaghetti aglio e olio are reliable fallbacks anywhere.

03
🛒

Supermarkets

Esselunga, Coop, Conad, and Carrefour all carry plant milks, tofu, and growing vegan sections. EU allergen labelling applies — always check individual labels, never assume a product is safe without reading it. NaturaSì for dedicated organic and vegan ranges.

04
🍧

Fruit Sorbetto

Scooped fruit sorbetto at a gelateria is almost always vegan and on every menu in the country. Safer than gelato at counters without displayed allergen info. Note: packaged sorbetto from supermarkets can contain milk solids or gelatine — always check the label. For coffee, ask for oat or soy milk: availability is fast in cities, slower in small towns.

Know Before You Go

Where It Gets Harder

Italy is genuinely easy in its major cities. It becomes something else in the places that made its food culture famous.

🏚
Rural south & traditional trattorias In Calabria, Basilicata, and parts of Campania, vegetables are often braised in pork stock. "Contorni" that look vegan frequently aren't. Small family trattorias rarely adapt recipes — explain your needs before you order, not after.
🍷
Aperitivo buffets Milan, Turin, and Bologna's free aperitivo spreads — served with drinks from 6pm — contain cured meats, cheese, bruschetta with hidden toppings, and finger food with embedded dairy or anchovy. Ask which items are entirely plant-based or treat the spread as decoration.
🫕
Emilia-Romagna's food identity Bologna's food culture is built on ragù, mortadella, parmigiano reggiano, and pasta all'uovo. The city has a growing vegan scene but requires more planning than Rome or Milan. Piadina, gnocco fritto, and tigelle are traditional with lard — always ask.
🌄
Small hilltop towns One trattoria, no nearby supermarket, no plant milk, no exceptions to the house recipe. Multi-day stays in rural agriturismo reward stocking up before you arrive. Farms focused on cheesemaking or cured meats are the hardest environments to navigate.
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Last updated February 2026 · Methodology & sources