Portugal
Public-sector vegan mandate; thriving Lisbon and Porto scenes; more negotiation outside cities
First country to legislate a plant-based option in public canteens by law — and the vegan restaurant scenes in Lisbon and Porto reinforce the ranking.
Portugal ranks #4 in the world — this is a country-level rank, not a city rank. Lisbon regularly places even higher when measured as an individual city against other global cities; if you've seen Lisbon cited as a top-five or top-three vegan city globally, that reflects a separate, city-level HappyCow metric. The country rank covers the full territory including smaller towns and rural regions where the experience differs significantly from the capital.
In 2017, Portugal became one of the first countries to pass a national law requiring a vegetarian option in all public-sector canteens — schools, hospitals, universities, and government buildings. This is genuinely useful for vegan travellers, but the law guarantees a plant-based meal, not a fully vegan one: in practice, vegetarian options sometimes include eggs or dairy. Always ask specifically about eggs and dairy when ordering in institutional settings. Private restaurants are not covered by the law. Outside Lisbon and Porto, negotiate carefully at traditional restaurants. Always check labels on packaged and baked goods — dairy derivatives and egg appear in many traditional products without prominent front-of-pack identification.
The Real Challenge
What's Hiding in the Kitchen
Portuguese soups are one of the most comforting things on any menu — and one of the most dangerous for vegans. Caldo verde, açorda, sopa de legumes, and rice dishes routinely use meat or fish stock as their base. The vegetables themselves are plant-based; the liquid cooking them often isn't. Asking for "sem carne" (without meat) doesn't resolve this — the animal product is in the water, not on the plate.
Traditional Portuguese baking and home cooking rely heavily on lard — in pastry dough, bean stews, cornbread, and regional festival breads. It's invisible in the finished product, adds no distinctive flavour flag, and is rarely volunteered by kitchen staff. In older or more traditional establishments, the assumption is that everyone eats it.
Caldo verde is Portugal's most iconic soup — kale, potato, olive oil — and it is almost always finished with sliced chouriço. Many restaurants will serve it "sem chouriço" if asked, but the sausage frequently simmers in the pot from the start, meaning the broth carries the meat flavour regardless. Ask about both the sausage and the stock as two separate questions.
Portugal's pastelaria culture is built almost entirely on egg yolk and dairy. Pastéis de nata, travesseiros, queijadas, bola de Berlim — the classics all contain egg and most contain butter or cream. Bakery cabinets look plentiful but are mostly off-limits. Packaged baked goods from supermarkets follow EU allergen labelling and are reliably readable — never assume safe without checking the label.
Say This in the Restaurant
Survival Guide
What Actually Works
Pingo Doce & Continente
Both major supermarket chains carry extensive, clearly labelled vegan ranges — own-brand plant milks, tofu, seitan, and prepared meals. Lidl Portugal labels just as well. Self-catering from these stores is the most reliable option outside city centres, and prices are significantly lower than eating out.
Grilled Vegetables + White Rice
Portugal's grill culture is your fallback in any traditional restaurant. Order "legumes grelhados" (grilled vegetables) — but ask if the rice is cooked in water or stock. A salad, grilled vegetables, plain rice, and a bread without butter (ask) is a reliable emergency meal even in non-vegan restaurants.
Lisbon's LX Factory & Bairro Alto
Both neighbourhoods contain clusters of dedicated vegan restaurants where zero translation is needed. Ao 26 — Vegan Food Project, The Food Temple, and Jardim dos Sentidos are established anchors. Porto's Bonfim and Cedofeita districts are the equivalent — look for the Happy Cow cluster there.
Use the 2017 Law — With Caveats
In any school canteen, hospital, university refectory, or government building, Portuguese law requires a vegetarian option — which often works for vegans, but isn't guaranteed to be fully vegan. Always ask specifically about eggs and dairy in institutional settings. This applies to public-sector canteens only; private restaurants are not covered. Even so, it's a meaningful safety net that most European countries can't offer.
Know Before You Go
Where It Gets Harder
Portugal's challenges are concentrated and predictable — outside Lisbon and Porto, traditional cuisine and limited vegan infrastructure require active preparation rather than assumption.
Last updated February 2026 · Methodology & sources
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